I'm reminded of my trip to Syria (done in 2008), several times... often when I'm lost in my consciousness and out of the blue, the scenes would play themselves out, as if a button has been pressed. I had gone to Syria with a group of people gathered between the NUS Middle East & North Africa Society and the Al-Markaz Arabic Language school. I had attended a sufi music event at the Arab Association (a place I hardly step into) and was given a flier by a girl about this upcoming trip. While waiting for the music program to start, I was intrigued by this flier in my hand and the incredibly attractive cost for the 2 week trip (S$2250) including flights, shared accommodation and 2 meals a day! Even though it was with a group of people I did not know, the thought of 'when would I ever get to go to Syria' kept coming into my mind and I made a mental note to email the contact soon as I got home to see if they had any more places available.
With all luck, there was space and i joined this eager-beaver crowd of mainly 20somethings on what probably remains one of my most memorable trips.
Below are some notes i took while on our group bus and as we traversed through different terrains in our 2 weeks there.
"There is a certain truth that seems deep rooted in these (pre)-Abrahamic lands, a truth that speaks to you. You may not even know what it is but it speaks to you. The mesmerizing landscapes evoke a chord that may have laid dormant for a while and as you traverse through the desert, you witness the sights, sounds, smells, and are subjected to an exercise that definitely 'wakes up' the soul.
We go through our lives feeding our minds and bodies, inadvertently forgetting or neglecting the soul. The nourishment for which is often aroused when it visits ancient lands strewn liberally with a universal historical heritage spanning centuries of livelihoods and existence.
The faint sounds of qasidah which is humbling and touching -- Allahu-allahu-allahu-Allah (the incantation that goes up in pitch) and then Allahu-allahu-allahu-Allah (Going down in pitch) -- resonates with the temporarily forgotten chords residing deep within the heart. Now awakened ofcourse on no effort of mine; just by visual sights that awakens and speaks to the soul. Amazing.
Credits to the handsome voice of Yusuf Islam telling us about the beauty of 'badru alaina' (the full moon appears up on us).
We visit the Castle of the Knights, locally known as Crac de Chevaliers and are amazed by the sturdy and overbearing architecture of centuries past. We become like little kids on a school trip examining the crevices, curves and texture of the columns, walls, fort platforms and wonder how war was carried out in the days of the past. We do this all in silence as each has their own mind working away trying to figure out meaning from what we saw.
In our two weeks putting up near the Old City, we would frequent Ammara Souq* for food, and to buy things and to see the life of the locals. It led to Umayyad Mosque and the Al-Hamidiyah Souq. We visited the maqams (tombs) of the Prophet's (peace be upon him) wives, of Hazrat Bilal the famous first muezzin (the one who calls others to Prayer), of the Prophet's cousins, second cousins etc.
We witness the marked site which reminds us of the Karbala Tragedy where in memory of the 19 heads which were sent back to the Muslims, there are 19 prayer skull-caps with Arabic inscriptions sewed into them. They are arranged in a neat display and looking at it, you are transformed to a time on how they must have been at the time of the Karbala Tragedy. It sends a chill through us.
An image that stayed in our minds is the one outside Sayyida Ruqaiyah's Mosque. Everyday, we would see groups of shia muslims standing outside giving duas and observing a mini matam (breast-beating) sometimes. The women would be in all-black burqas and there were always more women and than men visible at this maqam. This is the site where the infant of Hazrat Husain was killed in the Karbala Tragedy and more information is at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sayyidah_Ruqayya_Mosque
The visit to the black and white tiled Khalid bin Walid's tomb inside the mosque was another visual treat. The mosque was beautiful and the asymmetrical designs left us speechless. Beautiful clean outdoor courtyards where you could easily imagine the spill over of the ummah (congregation/followers) praying during prayer times and doves in conversation and flight creating a stunning scene.
An interesting encounter that i witnessed in this mosque was when I was about to pray, there was a lady praying such that the tomb was right in front of her. It was purposely situated right at the back of the mosque so that people would not pray behind the tomb. A mosque official pointed her out to me as she was in prayer and I was about to begin mine and I wondered what he was doing in the ladies section so I was a bit alert in case the curtain barrier was being removed etc. But he just pointed towards her, shaking his head and when I let out an unintentional sigh, he briefly laughed and kept shaking his head. The point was, prayer is offered to God, not tombs but people have colluded the practice over the years, especially in countries where mosques house the tombs. If a person without Islamic understanding were to witness the lady praying exactly behind the tomb, they may think ancestor worship is condoned in Islam.
Tombs are places for the dead where we give fatiha (short prayer used for several occasions). Prayer to God is in a mosque but without obstruction preferably; not in front of tombs.
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At the Souq...
What pleased me when I went to the souqs was the kind of respectful looks we received as we walked through the marketplace. Not cheap, not leary, not trying to thrust a sale down your throat. I felt if this was because not many international tourists came to Damascus, majority were from the Saudi and Gulf states. So the shopkeepers were not money minded.
Palmyra was another stunning place we went to - ruins dating back to 1st and 2nd Century A.D. The stories that accompany the structures were vivid and alive. For a comprehensive reading on this heritage site, please refer to http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/23 "
There were so many other experiences but I can't list them all here. The kind people we met, the hospitality we experienced, the simplicity we witnessed and the purity of the souls in places which provide little entertainment, were all rich experiences for us. I am so thankful to the invite I received to go to the Arab Association for the sufi programme (Prof Syed Farid Alattas) and to the girl who thrust the flier in my hand and to the organisers who fit me in - so I was able to make this trip. SubhanAllah - you all were part of making this journey for me. Thank you.
* souq is a reference to a marketplace
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Some pics can be viewed at
http://picasaweb.google.com/fmukri/SyriaTheSights02# and
http://picasaweb.google.com/fmukri/SyriaTheLocals# and http://picasaweb.google.com/fmukri/SyriaTheSuakuVisitors#
